The Shrimp Boat
In
the late 60’s, already the victim of two abortive attempts in business, I blindly
ventured into a third. Shrimp Boats of Louisiana, Inc. was a corporation
composed of shareholders Reese & Abadi. Reese knew a fellow by the name of Dick Wasserman, who
made a living selling cooking equipment to restaurants. Dick was about
forty-five years old when I knew him, and was a man who appeared to consume
copious portions prepared in one of those Wasserman stainless steel ovens. He
was your typical salesman type, who spoke his memorized inanities, non-stop.
Every
time I heard his name mentioned, I could only think of the Wassermann
diagnostic test for syphilis and wondered why I was eating anything exiting
those ovens. He actually was fairly differential in his dealings with us and
generally looked to his business partner to answer any of our questions. He was
talked into his side of the partnership because he could sell his restaurant
supplies to every franchisee, thereby making a hog’s killing before any of the
franchisor’s profits were realized. Nice work if you can get it.
Dick
had apparently combined his talents with another man, whose name escapes me,
and they founded a franchise with its defining signature being a restaurant
shaped like a shrimpboat and specializing in seafood. After about an hour
meeting with those two, George and I decided the only thing missing from our
lives was a restaurant shaped like a shrimpboat and specializing in seafood; so
we bought the deal. This was the first franchise sold by our antagonists, and
neither of them had ever been in the retail restaurant business prior to this
first sale. Reese and I missed that fact during our initial discussions.
I
once heard of a redneck from Mississippi and a Polish guy from Indiana, who
opened a French restaurant in New Orleans. They were absentee owners, to boot. I
immediately knew they had absolutely no chance of success. Neither one of them
was trained in the business, as they were professional football players who got
sold a bill of goods. They were well known luminaries in a city chocked full of
fabulous restaurants, and obviously they thought the crowds would flock to
their spot merely because their names were associated with the venture. I laughed
like hell when I heard those two jocks got taken down by some hustlers. “How
could they have done that?” I mused.
Well,
the ultimate laugh is on me. How could two lawyers succeed in the food
business, whose only restaurant experience is sitting at a table d’hôte, with napkins stuck under their chins, a plate of
boiled crawfish in front of them, and whistling up two more martinis? Answer is;
they can’t.
As
you drove down the main drag in a New Orleans suburb, up loomed this ugly
structure resembling a hurricane-beached shrimpboat. It had a gangplank for its
entrance, lifeboat rings with the name Shrimpboat of Louisiana written in a
semi-circle attached to the front door, fish nets hanging inside, and it even
had a crow’s nest upstairs to seat overflow diners. The kitchen had brand new,
Wasserman-supplied, stainless steel equipment and all of the tables, chairs,
booths, and pictures in the dining area were laced with a maritime theme. Then
came opening night.
“What
can go wrong will go wrong,” is a motto this place thrived on. Opening night
the rains came down in torrents. Now a little rain never stopped a Denny’s or
Burger King from serving their customers, because their parking lots are paved
and the customers have easy ingress and egress to these restaurants. At the
Shrimpboat Restaurant, during this rain it became abundantly clear to everyone
that our franchisors had not supplied a proper parking area to us. As
the few unsuspecting patrons, who braved the elements, attempted to exit from
their parking spaces, they found their vehicles had sunk to about midway up the
hubcaps in this thick, soupy, South Louisiana clay that held its prey like a
jungle beast mired in quicksand.
Of
course, any sane person who witnessed the two lawyers and their secretary in
the parking lot, up to their knees in goo, thoroughly soaked from the
ever-present rain, pushing their initial customers out of this quagmire, would
have suggested the doors to this august establishment be immediately nailed
shut, and a “closed” sign should be hung from the doorknob.
Rather
than nail the doors shut, we merely ordered several loads of oyster shells to
be dumped onto the parking areas, exchanging minor cuts to the customers’ tires
for mud up to the floorboards. At any rate, the oyster shells did the trick and
we continued in business.
We
did have to revise the gangway, since the moisture from the rain made it more
slippery than goose grease, and several first night customers emerged rubbing
their sore derrière.
The
next thing brought to our attention as owners was the packaging supplied by the
franchisors was defective. Since I was the delivery boy for the first month (a
lawyer in the restaurant business must start at the bottom), it was pointed out
to me, in no uncertain terms, the food a take-out customer was receiving was a
little off; maybe more than a little off. What was supposed to be crispy fried
catfish, in reality was a soggy, flaccid, hunk of something resembling a fish,
or at least in the same phylum as a fish.
We
discovered the delivery packaging was flawed in several ways. First, it had no
holes in the box to allow the freshly cooked seafood to expel its steam. Second,
the walls of the take-out boxes were lined with aluminum foil, creating more
interior moisture, resulting in all of the boxed contents being drowned in a
sea of evaporated steam, grease, and seafood liquids creating the fish
sculpture previously described. To add insult to injury, all of the other
accompanying foods (fried potatoes, rolls, etc.) were welded together with the
mystery seafood producing an unidentifiable glob of the most uneatable omelet
one can imagine. That was the end of our take-out business; at least, for
return callers. Can you picture the looks on the patrons’ faces as they opened
the tightly sealed aluminum-lined take-out boxes, expecting crispy fried
seafood and instead receiving a rancid smelling collage stuck to the bottom of
the container? As delivery-boy, I never saw so many jaws drop as the first
glimpse of the boxed contents went from pleasure, to awe, to wonderment, to
ire, to really pissed off, and finally to; “You expect me to pay for this
crap?” In some cases, the box hit me in the back before I could beat my hasty
retreat.
Those
were just a few of the startup problems. There were numerous others. As the
business rapidly decreased, our investment increased proportionately, until
such time we were forced to make a change. We told Wasserman and his buddy to
buzz off, and finally, one night after closing, we had a face-off in the
parking lot with the two of them versus Reese and me. Since I have always
eschewed physical violence, particularly if it involves me, I invited Rod Saavedra
to the party. Reese and I had long since forgiven Rod for his minor
transgression of stealing our money. The night ended up with much shouting and
posturing about who was at fault, and we verbally severed our relationship with
those two unarmed bandits. Saner minds would say Reese & Abadie were at
fault for participating in this boondoggle in the first place, but who listens
to saner minds?
“Show
me a sane man and I will cure him for you.” Carl Jung
We
replaced our management (Reese & Abadie) with a friend of mine from high
school, one Joe LaBella. La Bella, in Italian, is beautiful; whereas in Latin,
bella is war. Something must have gone awry in the translation, just as
something must have gone awry in the LaBella family. Joe looked like he was descended from the Vikings; not the
Romans. Joe’s blond hair, blue
eyes, and fair skin certainly didn’t resemble the other Italian boys I grew up
with, but his attitude was indeed beautiful. I can’t remember ever seeing Joe
without a large smile and a kind word for me.
Joe was a great baseball pitcher in
high school who specialized in a roundhouse curveball. The only curveball
thrown here was the one the franchisors threw at us. Joe quickly told me he had
enough of the restaurant business and we replaced him with another friend of
mine from college, Carlton Sweeney, who lasted long enough to realize it was a
sinking ship that could not be refloated; a virtual beached Titanic, and we
were the ones drowning.
Carlton
Sweeny had some kind of personality complex, because when he spoke to you, he
did so with his head sunk down into his chest and he never looked you in the
eyes. I understand he has been enormously successful in oil field ventures,
since leaving his temporary residence in the food business, which proves the
old axiom, “Slinging hash ain’t like drilling oil wells.”
One other person was tried as
manager, and he lasted all of two weeks. I was actually a little dubious about
his restaurant skills, when he instituted a breakfast menu to compliment our
long suffering lunch and dinner fare. He was of Indian extraction (dot; not
feather), and I guess he thought we needed to lose money on three meals per day
instead of just two.
By
this time we were losing so much money, Reese & Abadie had to return to the
front lines taking over the day to day management. One particular night we ran
an oyster special and several of the patrons suggested instead of serving the
oysters on a mock oyster plate, we should serve them on real oyster shells, as
most other seafood establishments in this area did. Not to be outdone by our
competition, I raced out to the parking lot and collected about two dozen partially
damaged oyster shells we had unloaded there after the opening night rains. I
placed the bottled oysters on the fractured shells, salted them down and served
‘um up. You never heard so many wonderful compliments about those “freshly
shucked beauties.” Our best selling item was a total fabrication.
Shortly after this brainstorm, Doug
Atkins, a behemoth professional football player, entered this mock vessel, with
a sidekick in tow, and ordered (demanded) oysters-on-the-half-shell. Try to
imagine our half shells; they were not one half of the entire oyster as is
customary in our local restaurants, but one half of one half, making them look
a little weird, particularly with the majority of the bottled oyster sagging
over both ends of the shell. The weeks of cars driving over the parking lot shells
had taken its toll on the shell’s configuration.
Atkins, was about six feet eight
inches tall, weighed well over three hundred pounds, and made Hulk Hogan look
like Shirley Temple. He began slurping down our ersatz
oysters-on-the-half-shell like there was no tomorrow. I don't know for sure
what effect our oyster combination had on this big animal, but what I do know
is; he never played one more down of football.
One
of my law professors, Hoffman Fuller, and his family came in one night while I
was waiting the tables, handling the cash register, and trying to sober up the
cook. He had taught a course in taxation, and he must have given me a donation
of a passing grade, because to this date, I have absolutely no earthly idea
what Congress has hidden in that IRS code. The man was literally so embarrassed
he began to sink further and further down into the booth when he recognized one
of his poorest students was wiping down the tables and shoveling hash to the
few patrons left. His wife and family stared at him like he was a stroke
victim. I, on the other hand, had completely lost all pride and approached the
table with a, “Well, hello Professor Hoffman, how’s tricks?”
“Ah,
Mr. Abadie, er, er how er are you?” he stammered, turning red as a beet, while
attempting to return to his original seated position.
“Fine
Professor, what’ll ya have?” For some inexplicable reason, I never saw him
again. Presumably, he now instructs his tax classes in the pitfalls of
attempting to circumvent his blessed IRS code and winding up like that Abadie
boy.
Several
of my close friends frequented our little establishment, but only once; no
relative ever dared show their face a second time. On a chance encounter in the
business district, they were either at a loss for words, or I spied them
dashing across the street to avoid a face-to-face confrontation with me, as
though I had just contracted a fresh dose of the bubonic plague. The really
close ones just laughed out loud and shook their heads in a physical show of
disbelief. They didn’t have the gumption to ask how we were doing. I guess they
knew.
Two
things finally did us in. Actually two hundred things did us in, but in reality
the last two were devastating. When I came home one night my wife asked me if I
saw the man land. I was so out of it, I asked, “What man?” Of course she was
referring to July 20, 1969 when Neil Armstrong landed on the moon saying,
“Tranquility base here. The Eagle has landed.” From growing up reading Buck
Rogers and all of the other space comics, to this historic event, I was always
fascinated by space and what is going on out there, and here it was I missed
the most significant space adventure ever. Served me right.
The
last thing causing the close of this purveyor of fine foods was an event that occurred
one dark and rainy night. It was also a night when the Shrimpboat proprietors
featured an all-you-can-eat chicken special. I realize this was a restaurant
specializing in seafood, but through some nefarious means, one of our
longshoreman clients had located several crates of beheaded chickens and Reese
and I figured, “What the hell difference does it make now? Let’s serve um up.”
After
a cursory inspection, our alcoholic cook swore to me the birds were just fine
and he could fry them up to a golden perfection so that the old Colonel himself
couldn’t tell the difference. I was particularly skeptical on hearing this
proclamation, since he hadn’t changed the grease in the fryers for about ten
days, and frying all the rancid seafood in them surely left a putrid residue,
which would have sped the old Colonel to his grave many years sooner. But it
was an all-you-can-eat special, and the combination of the inclement weather
and our growing reputation for serving the worst food on planet Earth,
apparently was keeping the wily patrons at bay. So I did not discontinue the
promotional sale, feeling I was safe, or in this case, the unsuspecting
customer was safe.
At this point, I worked at my law
office from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Rushing home, I undressed and changed into
my nighttime attire; old pants and an apron. I generally got to the Shrimpboat
at about 6:00 p.m. and worked to 10:00, or even 11:00 o'clock, if any
malingering customers had a desire to remain and chat after swilling the
uneatable gruel.
This
final night a huge red-neck family waltzed in about five minutes before closing
time, and spying the crow’s-nest, the big ugly one ordered his family to ascend
the spiral staircase, leaving behind an entirely empty first floor. My bedside
demeanor had waned over the intervening several months and as I approached his
table, out of breath from the climb, I barked, “What do you want?”
“I want that God-damn chicken
special, boy,” he shouted, popping several more veins in his already crimson
nose.
“What do these two lovely children
want?” I replied, looking down at two small malformed creatures, obviously a
product of years of double-wide trailer inbreeding.
“They don’t want nothin’ boy. I’m the
onlyest one eatin’.”
Now there was this loud-mouthed
red-neck, what looked to be his wife (possibly his sister too), his two little
cretin children, and an old lady who just sat there with saliva dribbling down
her chin. I’m not sure how she got up those God-damned stairs without a hoist,
but she made it in better shape than I did. So, down the stairs I went to see
the cook, who was sitting in his favorite spot on the floor, sucking out of a
bottle of cheap bourbon, and I barked the order, “One chicken special chef, on
the double.”
While the chef was drunk, he was not
stupid, and he replied, “What the fuck them other red-necks eatin’?”
“Nothing,” I said, with a wink, as
the cook levered himself from the floor and commenced throwing the
longshoreman’s headless monsters into his boiling cauldron.
Up I went to the crows nest the third
time (second time to deliver drinks) and placed a large platter of faux chicken
in front of this classic Bubba. About ten minutes later, I heard him yell, “Hey
boy! More of this here chicken.” Another platter was delivered. Same request
ten minutes after that, and I delivered yet a third portion. This time I
noticed the grease was running down the faces of not only the obnoxious
red-neck and his wife-sister, but also down the faces of the two no-neck
monsters, and lastly, the spittle on Granny’s face was replaced by a puce
colored gravy, which one can only assume was a product of the chef’s nasty
cauldron.
“Sir,” I said, politely. “You can’t
feed your entire family on one chicken special.”
“Listen boy,” he yelled, rising from
his chair. “You jus’ haul yo’ ass down them stairs yonder and fetch me another
plate of this here stuff, and don’t you worry none, about who’s eatin’ it.”
I was about to respond when one of
the no-neck cretins turned his head in my direction and said, “Big Daddy, I
think I’m goin’ to be sick.” And sick he was. All down the front of my shirt,
pants, belt, and shoes. Great globs of whatever animal it was the longshoreman
stole, coupled with the chef’s ten-day-old grease, produced a chicken salad
mosaic that stained my entire front.
I screamed maniacally, “Get the fuck
out of here you red-neck bastard and take these retards with you.” I raced
downstairs into the kitchen and came out brandishing one of the cook’s longest
and sharpest knives, still screaming at this dysfunctional family at the top of
my lungs. I chased that big bastard all the way to his pickup truck,
threatening to castrate him and his wife-sister, as they sped from the depleted
oyster-shell parking lot.
I went back into the kitchen,
breathing heavily from the exercise, snatched the cheap bottle of bourbon from
the staggering cook, and emptied it in one long pull. I turned to the cash
register, unloaded the money, gave most of it to the cook, and told him, “Chester,
we are officially closed.” I ordered him to hang a sign on the front door–
Closed for Repairs– whereupon I drove to the nearest liquor store, bought a
bottle of Wild Turkey bourbon, and then on to Reese’s house for the final
showdown. I relayed the most recent episode to George and told him I was
thinking of how we could get out of this contract with the franchisors.
“How,” he asked sleepily.
“Sue the bastards,” I replied.
And sue we did. George’s nephew, Sam
LeBlanc, was a real lawyer (as opposed to Reese & me), with a respectable
firm, and George importuned him to take our case. We went all the way to the
trial, empanelled a jury, and Reese and I testified to “the truth and nothing
but the truth, so help us God.” Our expert witness, Paul Sels, a Burger King executive at
that time, testified and probably scarred the hell out of the defendants,
because shortly after the morning recess we were offered a settlement, which we
promptly accepted. If you had multiplied the settlement by ten thousand, we
still lost a lot of money.
For several years after the
conclusion of this trial, every time I waltzed into the courtroom where the
trial was held, the Judge’s clerks sang out at me, “Shrimpboats is a’comin,’
their sails are in sight....”
Reese and I were the laughing stock
of the entire courthouse.
“Always
the dullness of the fool is the whetstone of the wits.”
Shakespeare: As
You Like It
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